I’ve used pre-stain conditioner on other projects on raw wood, but may not have on this project, so maybe that was the difference. I had a huge problem trying to stain pine picture frames with Polyshades and ended up thinning it with quite a bit of the appropriate solvent to make it workable.
I suggest searching for “problems with polyshades“ or something similar. And that’s even But this isn’t going to help Jay or anyone who might want to tweak a wood stain color that turned out too red, ashy, light, orange…If it’s too dark, you’re out of luck.
I’ve only had the opportunity for that color a couple of times, but everyone who sees it in my house now compliments me on it.After 30+ years of rentals in white or whatever strange color, I only want what I want. All rights reserved. If you do go … haha. As an example to achieve an exact match; when adding a ‘new’ mantle in Pine in the latter space where I opted again to use the oil, I had to ‘lightly’ go over it with a stain however for the life of me cannot recall what colour or product I used but do remember wiping the excess off blending it to my liking. Best of luck Jay! My mother made me the most sexy evening dress in dark brown as it was essentially a little black dress style.Now I cannot stand brown. But, it’s an important point, that I should’ve brought up in the post. And in the end, I ended up painting over the reddish stain with a faux wood treatment. Used to love navy at that same time. Apparently, pine needs to have some steps taken before it’ll take stain, if not already stained. Believe me when I say, “we” repay you with much goodwill directed your way. Some days, it’s everything I can manage just to read the emails!Of course it is, Laurel. The steps sound gorgeous!Kristi, from the blog “Addicted to Decorating” actually did what you recommended, Laurel–she used a colored polyurethene to tweak and even out the color of her hardwood floors that she had recently refinished herself. There are numerous posts on woodworking forums about it. !Personally, I love white/grey/bleached floors. Other than that, they look great.I’m not sure if the product has changed or not. Keep it coming!I have used equal amounts of clear glaze and paint to doctor up woodwork. I wish that someone would point me in the right direction too! Is there any way to minimize the red tone? A third way to change the color of an existing stained and finished wood surface is with the addition of a tinted paste-wax. Great advice you have presented. Start by stripping off what you can (as described above), then seal the wood with a water-thin mix of de-waxed shellac and alcohol.
I love that a navy stain over pine looks teal!Gel stains are much thicker than regular stains and easier to work with. Paint has been used in the past as a toner.Thanks so much for sharing your techniques. I used a dark brown/black polyshade over dark paint and it worked wonderfully…like a miracle. You could always paint it. -Brenda-There are more outside links to info in this post than usual and there’s a link talks about preparing the pine and I found it in numerous places. As for Jay’s dilemma, I do hope he can find a solution. Saturate the wood with the solution and wipe it off. You need to wear a chemical mask when you apply this though as it smells (lee valley tools has them) and you need to get a good buffing brush that can be attached to your drill as it will need to be buffed a lot. Minwax® PolyShades® is an easy way to change the color of your currently stained or polyurethane finished wood. I think they did the railing in the stairs (in their hallway). I can only imagine he and others with the same problem jumped for joy to be pointed in the right direction(s). I found the idea on the blog for younghouselove. To knock that orange back, I would try a blue or a blue-green. I highly recommend the product.
That sounds like a great possibility.Laurel, Though no longer proffering advice by email, I’m so relieved that you so kind-heartedly provided guidance for Jay’s dilemma. 4 DIY Outdoor Projects You Can Make Out Of Real CedarAre you looking for a new project to tackle outside using cedar? I’ve been stripping antique doors with Citristrip. I also use fiddes and sons rugger brown wax on a lot of the furniture I restore and its lovely for toning down a colour.
I refinish furniture and doors for a lot of my clients and Jay needed to test that finish first. Well, duh.Apply another coat of poly that’s tinted to minimize the red.Polyshades comes in a bunch of different colors, but what if none of the colors do what we want it to do?
And that looks like I’m not sure what kind of wood that is on the ceiling, but it sure is lovely.
I have unsealed floors (original & old) in various states. I’m wondering if it’s better to go over a light stain?
You can check out the rest of this amazing home in the link. But what’s interesting is that these are all stains over pine! While it is still wet, using a cup gun full of thinner and a tablespoon of green dye, fog it - the red will go brown, but be careful, because it can go green if you lay too much on. Sounds like it was rather pink before you got your hands on it.I feel for Jay. Sometimes it’s a matter of not being exposed to a style, but once we are, we fall in love.Twenty plus years ago, I stripped (a nightmare) the dark walnut 70s finish from my kitchen cabinets and redid them all in Polyshades. Wipe off the excess with a rag immediately. There’s no stripping or heavy sanding necessary to remove the old finish! Pine definitely must be pre-conditioned to take on an even stain and even then IMO it is no guaranty that it will.
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