I'm at a loss on an actual fix for this problem and wondered if you've ever decoded it with your own?

We dont know the history of the car. Im thinking the small cracks in the rubber gasket caused the code but all the engine oil flushing I did wasn't going to hurt either. I've been diligently trying to figure this issue out being that my daughter drives the E daily.. I checked wiring connections to the selenoids and pressure switches, all have good continuity to ground and 3.4v to each selenoid, 12v to the pressure switch. Note, I didn’t actually removed the switch as I didn’t want to disconnect/cut the white cable tie (see below), I left the switch hanging after removing x3 10mm socket bolts. I have run 10w30 since my first oil change and never an issue. Thank you for your help. The oil changes and seafoam treatment probably wasn't a bad idea being the E has 183k Miles on it & we just got it 5 months ago. My opinion. They both did the job in reading the code. This was the only one that failed by filling with oil though.

The labor wasn’t that bad after trying everything else, especially labor for the screen on the side of the engine. Also only use OEM parts.After trying the spool valve, both screens, timing solenoid, way too much futzing over a year and a half.

No codes and revved from idle to redline at any givin time not missing a beat. Thank you for your help. I have a complete new Napa rockerarm selenoid/ pressure switch spool for sale if as anyone is in need of one. The pan was dirty, suspected the passages would be as well. They are located here:The other thing to note is that since there isn’t much space behind the engine putting the 3 bolts back was very time-consuming. My 2003 CR-V (199K) has had the same issue for months - shows as P1259 (VTEC malfunction) Cleaning the spool & parts with brake cleaner and blowing the parts out could've removed a piece of crud causing it all??

Still does not use oil between changes. I let it cool for 1 hr between the two test rides.

No codes and revved from idle to redline at any givin time not missing a beat.

Thought it might have something to do with oil viscosity as the oil is fully warmed up after 15-20 minutes so switched to 10w30 Mobil 1. My 2003 CR-V (199K) has had the same issue for months - shows as P1259 (VTEC malfunction)My 2005 has 310,000 miles. Way too much work to change the oil pump - dropping the front subframe to remove the oil pan - for something that may not even work.

And here is my fix of choice. Clean the engine passages, it gets dirty even with regular oil changes. My daughter has been driving it daily to school & 2 jobsElement Owners Club is your go to forum community to discuss your Honda Element, and get ideas from your next great trip to your next Honda Element Mod.

Put the stock one back on. I did one more oil change with 5-20 synthetic and a mobile 1 oil filter.. cleared the code and took the car for 2 test rides each of about 20 miles & it ran perfectly. I've got the same issue with my 06 element, after scouring the internet for many hours I'm coming up clueless to a fix. This vtec engine is turning me off of Honda, yet I keep it even after it’s next failure..Reason for pulling the oil pan and cleaning the oil passages. P2646 Honda Fix P2646 Honda. The first two were just shotgun attempts to find a solution when the more expensive components did not solve it.
Turn ignition off and back on and goes out of limp mode but usually come back on soon. I've been diligently trying to figure this issue out being that my daughter drives the E daily.. Or.

The P2546 Honda code definition is: P2646: VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage.

Any suggestions from anybody on what to try next?SpeedyGreen... have you ever found a remedy for the 2646 on the 04 Element?

It was a matter of just guessing where to put the bolt and then tighten it.After putting the switch back, I reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery cable for about 10-15 minutes. It's been almost a year since we purchased the Renault Kole I recently installed a dash cam that I purchased on sale an We needed a new car since our Honda CRV was involved in a cLet me start off by saying - always compare prices before haCheck your inbox or spam folder to confirm your subscription.
I just went ahead and removed the switch and cleaned it. CEL comes on and goes into limp mode (won't go over 2800 RPM). Turn ignition off and back on and goes out of limp mode but usually come back on soon. Bought it used, had been through an auto auction, no idea the real history, obviously not well maintained before I bought it. Drove it under 2800rpm for most of the year and a half, it maxxed out at 68 mph without a hill climb. I am an entrepreneur based in Sydney Australia. I let it cool for 1 hr between the two test rides. Panic strikes whenever you see the engine light flash on the dashboard and this happened to us the other day.


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