john laughlin climber

This may be of no concern to anybody or everybody has already seen this, but all this reading about slipstream made me think of this old vhs video I used to have and probably havent watched in a decade . Just as awsome and inspiring today as ever. The Smith-Sorenson ice groove was very nice and would have fitted in well on the Ben - it's just to the right (facing the cliff) of the Gabbarrou Picard-Deyme couloir and quite similar to that climb for difficulty.Wee Jock asks: "In a more serious vein I loved the Chacal. Cronn and Buhler were consistant partners that winter and spring. For those interested I took the time to research Slipstream a bit more this morning. A screw every 4m is pretty well sewn up, but the ease that they can be placed with now makes it a reality.

I had anyway. Judging by your photo I think I would have really liked to climb with a chacal and a barracuda. They came home looking for bigger objectives. Sometimes equalizing two or three screws to protect a set of moves is prudent. anyways this has been argued over and over so its doubtful we will agree..but from a physics stand point I could dangle from my leashes all day long.. "What do you do with one of the new tools when you go over the top of a bulge of hard (or crappy) ice into deep powder snow""Kingy (and I) considered 'hooking' and 'torquing' etc as pure cheating (near the end of the article). A moderate alpine climb with a Nomic...WTF? Even 10 screws on a 60m pitch means large run outs between pieces and huge fall potential (12m plus rope stretch is giant IMO). Leashless and the new screws have been as big or bigger revolution in gear and techniques as we had back in the early '70s. Short and no spike, not particularly good for plunging; seems a lot like the Nomic to me. (CAJ '82) From personal comments to me that winter all involved thought AT much harder and a lot more serious than Slipstream. Gordon and Tobin Sorenson did a major new route on the North face of the Grand Jorasse back in the mid 70s that a British party just recently claimed a first free ascent of.

My 1st addition is from '80 that I bought in Feb of '81. And the race was on. Stick the head in the snow and they make a decent walking stick on steep ground. My home town, Spokane buddies, John Roskelly and Kim Momb followed us the next day.

No pin placements on Shooting Gallery today? Obviously he wasn't just ahead of the curve. He is my mentor and one of my best friends, I take his opinions on the state of alpine climbing in the Rockies seriously. We've got a few newer mixed alpine routes that you might like back here in the Cascades. I wrote, "Scottish 6+ pushing 7, WI 5+". Although Gordon would certainly call modern mixed cheating. We attempted (2nd time) and then backed off the crux of what later became Twight/Backes line "Deprivation". Cobras, Quarks, Vipers and the like are, in my mind, alpine tools. Suppose to be the first ascent of Slipstream. wrote up the harder climbs in. Hard to believe as I never saw John carry a third tool the next winter using the Chacal and Simond axe almost exclusively or on rare occasion the school's Stubia Rupals.In the 2nd Ed. Oh and if you are still using leashes....you are obviously no F16 pilot Dane, never once did I say that I had a handle on 40 years of ice climbing evolution, only my take on it as someone keenly interested in Rockies climbing history. Nor is that finish listed in Albi's guide. From Joe's description, "on the first ascent of Slipstream JE and JL climbed directly over the serac barrier via a long, ferious pillar of water ice (WI6) that only occasionally forms. In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich! Soooooooooooooooooooooo jealous! Here is the original thread on ST that has real book potential when you realise all involved.