grey dust on bottom of pool

But I'll try to pick up some bleach this weekend and go with that.

Use Almost from the first year I've had what appears to be a super-fine "dust" that settles ONLY on the bottom of the pool.

Also, you can get ammonia as a result of decayed leaves and other materials from plants being swept or dropped into the pool.

The local store has a new automated water analysis system and it measures quite a few parameters including CC (Combined Chlorine) so I'll go ahead and post them anyway in case anyone wants to look them over. Now when I vacumn the pool it comes right up goes threw the filter and into the spa.

So I super shocked it with liquid chlorine.

Have a nice day. If you do not have a Taylor K-2006, it really should be a priority so we can see what's going on in your water. I was reading somewhere else on here that if the 'dirt' disperses as soon as you get near it, it's actually dead algae...so the stuff you're using may be killing the algae to create all of this, but you'll still need the test results to understand how it got to this point. Gray Algae in a Pool Step 1. Take your FC reading in 1 hour and if it drops below 4ppm, raise it back to 12ppm and take the reading again after an hour, repeat the process until your FC is stable between 4 to 6ppm and mastered algae will disappear without coming back.Finally, leave your pool running so that your FC comes to 3ppm, then balance your water starting with the Cyanuric acid at 40ppm, pH, TA, and CH.My pool water is well balanced and very clear, but there is a greenish coating adhering to the floor and walls which cannot brush off. 4. You can use dry acid or Muriatic Acid to lower the pH. Shock the pool add algaecide and scrub down the sides and bottom of the pool with a stiff pool broom there should be a lot of dead algae on the bottom of the pool the next day. I've actually "captured" some in a jar by diving with a container and googles. Now, you need to test and establish the pH level before adding any chlorine, especially when using Calcium Hypochlorite(Cal hypo) also known as super shock or altra shock that comes with high pH levels.Depending on the chlorine you are using, the pH tends to rise when chlorine is added in a swimming pool; if you are using Calcium Hypochlorite(powder) chlorine, you need to keep your pH as low as possible, not higher than 7.2.Another side effect of Calcium Hypochlorite is that it has lots of calcium and may cause calcium scaling and this may hugely affect your pool chemistry or damage your pool, and that is why liquid chlorine(Sodium Hypochlorite) is the best option to fight algae where a lot of chlorine will be used and it's also active and works faster than powder or tablet chlorine. Your CC's are entirely too high, indicating algae or something but all you need is the chlorine, not the added calcium that CalHypo has. I know you would prefer for me to have a test kit for more reliable results but like I said it's a bit of a challenge to get one where I live. Other than the occasional cloudiness the water looks good so not sure about the iron levels.

it was caused by not enough algaeside in our inground pool hope this helps

Its definitely powder/dirt because as soon as you touch it, it disperses into the water.

If the filter system is not working properly, the pool water will never clear up, even after all this effort, and you will have to replace or repair the filter.This comprehensive DIY guide should help in your efforts in eliminating algae. I replaced the entire cartride (about $130) and it changed nothing.I'm not even a rookie, but with the little intex pools I have had in the past, sounds like residue of chlorine tabs that I used to get in my pool.

Yeah I will try to dump out and replace water this weekend to get the CH down to more manageable levels. I originaly thought it might be pollen/air pollution but I've gotten this all-year round.

I got impatient getting the filter fired up and didn't read enough and fired it up without rinsing it first so I managed to blow a cloud of dust into the pool. All chemistry is spot on. Your vinyl pool doesn't NEED calcium. We need to see your FC, CC, CYA, PH, TA and CH. Reducing the pH may be necessary as a general rule because chlorine will more effective in low pH that high pH levels.This step involves adding chlorine to raise your FC to shock level in relation to Cyanuric acid level in your water, and maintaining FC at that level by adding more chlorine when FC falls below maximum target range to be able to kill all agae, bacteria, and ammonia.It's important to mention that killing algae is an experimental process; therefore, results may not appear after one day. Chlorine, 1 HP, paper filter ("Splash Pack") located in central New Jersey.